Tuning Check List, Info & Guidelines
This tuning checklist is designed to save you money and prevent any additional cost/delays during a tuning session.
Please go over the following and contact me with any questions prior to scheduling an appointment.
Possible added cost to consider:
- Correct size map sensor
- Boost control
- Mechanical issues
- Leaks
- Fuel pump
- OBD conversion
- Correct heat range plugs that are properly gapped
- Engine Management
- Software license fees
- Wiring issues
*Read the "General" section first, then at the bottom of the general section, you can select links that will jump to detailed information about a few different common platforms that are brought to us and that you may have.
General
The customer is responsible of bringing us a healthy and finished platform thats ready to be tuned. It needs to have a way we can easily connect to the ecu (unless its a carburetor application) with a tuning laptop via a USB or serial cable (USB preferred, serial can cause connection issues, customer must supply any interface cable(s) unless pre arranged). Honestly we don't require anything special, its the same for all professional tuners. It needs to be mechanically and electrically sound just the way you plan to use it on the street/track/water. By making sure your platform is prepared for our services you drastically minimize major delays of having to involve other parties. This will make sure that the tune process is a simple and painless same day service like its intended to be. We just want to do whatever we can to make sure your happy with our tuning services and this is by far the most important part.
Initial Start-Up
Typically for a same day service the car would need to start and idle somewhat normal on its pre setup tunable EMS, ready for fuel/timing/feature dyno tuning. If the engine has never been started on its current ecu/ems, this needs to be gone over with us prior to scheduling a dyno tuning service, as this can cause major delays. Normally if the customer has never started a fresh setup there can be a lot of unseen issues at hand.
Tuning process time
Typically, it takes from 2-4hr to get your car in and out the door tuned.
Problems, troubleshooting, questions, distractions, wiring, etc all increase time. Please remember this, especially when your inviting all your friends to go watch your car being tuned. I can promise you, when you bring all your buddies, it will double the amount of time it takes. You should consider a video camera instead. I really do enjoy hanging out but not when so much needs to be done.
Getting everything setup and ready for the tuning process is what takes the most time. Laptop time is normally 1/4-1/2 of the process.
Until the customer waiting room and dyno cell is finished, I would prefer if you did not bring others or pets with you. Just your self for dyno tuning services. If you want others to watch you on the dyno, after the car is tuned, we can setup another appointment for dyno time only, for you to do whatever you like on the dyno in front of whoever you like. You can do horsepower/torque sweeps, acceleration test, standing stop drag racing, 1/8 mile, 1/4mile, 1 mile test and more.
Weekend Appointments
Weekends can be hectic sometimes, more tunes are scheduled then and they can run into each other very rarely when problems arise and wait times can be longer. Normally the problems that arise were covered on this checklist. Please be more understanding on the weekends, We are just trying to help and I understand all our friends, family and companions would rather us be spending time with them vs working. There is now a $50 surcharge for weekend appointments. We honestly prefer if you make a weekday appointment but we do understand than some can not make it on week days. We can also do night time appointments during the week as well.
Fluids
Please understand; You are responsible for maintaining all fluid levels and tire pressures. To most this is simple common sense but do not bring me a car that is low on coolant, oil, trans or other vital fluids. Its a very hard lesson learned when it could have been avoided for 10$ at the auto parts store.
Wiring
If you have made any alterations to the factory chassis or engine harnesses, It always best to solder any connections you may have made. Crimp on connectors will cause you problems in the long run and no twisted/taped wire connections. Most of the time I see electrical issues [sensors not reading correctly] it goes hand and hand with a hacked up engine harness.
Exhaust Leaks
Exhaust leaks are not recommended. Exhaust leaks after the 02 sensor bung does not have a huge effect on the tune, but do hinder performance. Exhaust leaks before the 02 bung, cause a lean condition on my tuning wideband. I will see its lean, and I will add fuel, fuel that is not needed. Please ensure you have no exhaust leaks prior, or before the 02 bung.
Boost Leaks
Boost leaks cause poor torque graphs on the dyno, boost falls off hard in the upper rpm's, torque plummets with the falling boost curve. Boost leaks do damage turbo's, they over spin them. Damaged turbo's causes oil to be induced to the intake air stream, which lowers the octane level of the fuel that you are running. Which can lead to detonation, which can lead to engine failure.
Cheap Auto parts Store/ebay Air Filters
I highly recommend you use a high quality name brand air filter. No china or auto parts store junk. I've seen cars boost limited by the un seen restriction in place by a poor quality filter. I've seen them also come apart and get sucked inside the turbo. We recommend K&N filters, they have round filters that are designed for turbo charged applications. They will not come apart on you or cause any restrictions, they function just as they should for years.
Vehicle Speed Sensor
Its important that your speedometer works. Its needed for certain ems features like launch control/anti lag, gear dependent boost, gear corrections, and no lift to shift. If your speedometer does not work we can still tune it out but these features will be temporarily disabled.
Check engine lights
If you have a check engine light prior to tuning, you need to run the codes and let us know what they are prior to tuning. Most cases everything will be ok and we can correct it in the tuning process, but some times the codes can be caused by wiring issues that can ruin tuning equip. See 'IAT sensor wiring'
TPS Sensors
On the Honda's, and most quality ems systems, we can calibrate this for you in the software. No volt meter is needed. Some cars with ancient ems systems, you need to calibrate this the old fashion way like the book says, with a volt meter, it should have the correct voltage closed and open.
Fuel Pump
Make sure you fuel system rating is higher than your hp expectations. If you need help deciding on a fuel pump or any part, please contact us.
Boost control
If you want us to tune higher boost levels that what the wastegate spring is rated for; we must have a way to do so, via a manual boost controller [not recommended], electronic stand alone controller or an ems/ecu electronically controlled setup [recommended]. We normally have EMS/ECU boost control components in stock, everything is ecu electronically controlled with quality engine management systems. This allows for gear dependent boost which puts the power were you need it in every gear. Less boost in the lower gears, more boost in the higher gears. Some engine management systems also support vehicle speed based boost, time based boost and other methods of controlling boost.
Spark Plugs:
Turbo cars, nitrous and high whp NA setups need colder spark plugs that are gapped low, this ensures that no ignition miss fire issues will arise during the tuning process. We normally start the cars off with a 20-25 gap using a heat range 7, 8, or 9 plug. Stockish boosted and mild NA setups normally use a 7. Built setups normally use a 8-9 heat range.
If you are coming in for a dyno tune, Please bring at least two extra sets of plugs or buy the correct plugs from us. Please let us know if you are going to need us to supply these while making your tuning appointment.
While dyno tuning, I prefer to do plug chops and pull the plugs and read them with an otoscope. Using this method I can pinpoint exactly how each cylinder is burning and adjust accordingly. Reading plugs will accurately tell me what the engine wants and can handle. Reading plugs is more accurate than a pile of widebands and knock sensors. I need fresh plugs to do this and can burn though 2-3 sets easily towards the end of the tuning session. I normally do 90% of the tuning on one set of plugs, then do final high load tuning with 1-2 more sets of plugs.
We offer NGK plugs, we normally stock 7s and 8s. The 7s cost $6.25 each, 8s are $7.50 each.
You can go to the auto parts store and give them these NGK part numbers, 4644 for the 7s or 4554 for the 8s.
*Street car Subaru's do not need extra sets of plugs typically, they just need to come in on a somewhat new set of properly gapped plugs
*Naturally Aspirated (non turbo, supercharger or nitrous) Cars do not need to bring extra sets of plugs
*V8 power adder cars (turbo, supercharger or nitrous), its a good idea to bring one extra set
Cam timing
If you have adjustable cam gears and want them tuned out on the dyno, its adds $100 for a twin cam setup and 75$ for a single cam setup. We have made loads of extra power adjusting cams on the dyno. We can see exactly what cam adjustments are working. Most of the time it is best to bring us the car with both cams zeroed out. This does add 1-2 hrs to the tuning process.
02 Bung
We need a 02 bung available so we can install our tuning wideband. Most of the time we can remove a stock 02 sensor and install ours in its place. Its always a good idea to make sure you have an extra working o2 bung available or that your 02 sensor is not stuck. 02 bungs that have the threads messed up or hole misaligned will require us to remove pieces of your exhaust system to plug the bung and re weld in new one. We have to ensure our expensive wideband sensors stay safe.
We now have a 02 'sniffer', it goes in the tail pipe and can check med and high load fueling. This is for the guys that do not have a free 02 bung or do not to fix a damaged one. This has worked great for many of our Subaru customers.
Ground points
Please clean ground cable points before scheduling a tune. This helps ensure you wind up with a accurate air fuel ratio. On most of the Honda's we tune, there should be 3 ground points in the engine bay. Locations are: Driver side head light to valve cover, thermostat housing, and passenger side head light area to transmission. Don't leave any of these out when building your car.
Fuel level
Please have at least a half of tank of fuel when you come in for tune work.
E85 Tuning
Yes we do support ethanol, its great fuel to say the least. In my eyes its some of the safest and most powerful fuel you can run. For the money there really isn't a fuel that will beat it. Pretty typical for us to have 40whp gains with just a fuel change and retune at the same boost level. After raising the boost and tuning to MBT (most efficient timing value), some setups gain 150-250+whp more over pump gas. One thing you can NOT do however is getting tuned on a winter blend, ex E70, then trying to run E85 without retuning. The results can be lean and catastrophic. The ethanol content should never go higher than what you are tuned for, the fuel wont be there and the required amount of timing isn't the same. Technically if you are tuned for e85 and the content drops to e70, you should get retuned, but its not as detrimental this way, your fueling will just get richer. If you EMS/ECU is compatible with a flex fuel sensor, you really should consider running one. The flex fuel sensor will allow the ecu to auto adjust fuel, timing, and boost based upon real time, actual ethanol content. We recommend Haltech EMS, their flex fuel strategy works great.
Injector Clips
If you are using an OEM Honda style injector plug on your engine wiring harness. Make sure your injector connectors have the metal wire clips in place. Without these clips the connectors back off and starve a cylinder of fuel.
Catch cans
Are a great idea, one that returns into the back of the block or into the OEM black catch can under the intake manifolds work the best and are maintenance free. Catch cans can be as simple as a pop bottle or as extensive as a tig welded aluminum box with an fittings and multiple breathers. When modifying the valve cover and adding threaded AN bungs for an extensive can like this, please make sure your fabricator does not remove the factory valve cover oil baffles. The idea of a catch can is to vent crankcase pressure out of the valve cover and the block. It is important that your crankcase does not pressurize.
Engine Break In
We can break your engine in on the dyno, it adds $50 to your bill. We spend about an hr with it varying the load and compression testing your engine to seat your piston's rings.
Fluid Leaks
If your car is leaking oil and fluids and you are not prepared to have us fix them, we can only street tune the car as we like to keep our dyno and local tracks clean. Small fluid leaks can be dealt with on the dyno, just please help us wipe down the dyno when finished. I could have paid for 1/3 of a house with the money I have invested into this dyne setup, it means everything to me. If your car leaves fluids on my dyno or in my shop, you will be charged a $25 clean up fee.
Workspace
Please give us room to work on your car, do not be following us around asking questions, please hold these questions till the end of the tuning session. Please stay back from the dyno, computers, equipment and have a seat. Please no hanging on the window seal looking over my shoulder.
Customers working on cars
I'm sorry but I can't allow this any more, too much of a liability. We are the only ones that can work on your car on our property. There are no exceptions. Make sure everything that you can take care of is done before you bring it to us. If the car needs work while its here, we work on it and it cost $50/hr. I've gotten several guys that show up for their tuning appointment but with an unfinished car expecting to be able to work on it for hours while we wait.
Customer's friends
I wouldn't bring them. I enjoy talking to people, but not while I'm trying to work. When you bring your friends it will double, if not triple the time it takes..
Issues:
I honestly, do not mind having to stop the tuning process to fix minor problems, but it will add to your bill at an hourly rate. Please consider this before you pack up your unfinished car and bring it to me.
Keep in mind, we are just helping you with your car. When it comes down to it, our only job is tuning your car. We are not responsible for finishing out your car prior to the tune. Chances are, we may have not built your car and/or your engine. Problems take up both of our time but in the end, they are your simple problems, not my problems or problems that I have created.
Safety:
This tuning process should be one of the last stages of completion with your car, I understand a work in progress but the car should function like a normal car and be safe, from the brakes to the balancing, don't bring me a car that is about to fall apart.
Street tuning can be unsafe, at times against the law and will take 3 times as long vs dyno tuning. I have invested the money to more accurately tune in a safe and sealed environment on a chassis dynamometer, please utilize that.
I reserve the right to have my mechanic drive your car on the street or on the dyno at any time if I feel the need during the tuning process. I have to stay safe, I trust him as he drives these high whp cars every day and knows exactly what I need while tuning it. We have set, safe routs that have proved successful time and time again. I have to know that the car is still headed in the right direction even know I haven't looked up away from the lap top in a few minutes.
Limp mode tunes
If problems arise and you can't afford to fix them at that time, you not out of luck. We can give you a 'limp' mode tune in most situations. You can come back for a brush up at a later date to remove the restrictions. The restrictions could be a low boost cut, low rev limit, conservative timing and/or fueling. Limp mode tunes are modified copies of your actual tune. These limp mode tunes have ensured reliable transportation and engine safety for many of my customers.
Tags, insurance, seat belts, brakes, alignment
We normally check the car on the street after a dyno tune. I can not ride in a car on the street if it does not have these things. I have to limit my risk in life. Getting a tune from me should be your last step in the build process. Drag cars are an exception, I understand some of these cars are not street legal and we must take it to the track with these cars. We install the tuning equip and makes some passes while I log and tune. Track tuning does cost extra but its very affordable.
Methods of payment
We accept cash, credit cards and Paypal. Credit cards and back accounts can be processed through paypal or via our credit card processor. Paypal and credit card payments must add 3.5% to cover their added payment fees. No checks or IOUs excepted. Payment in full has to be completed before we can release the car, absolutely no exceptions to this.
Re-Tunes\Brush-Ups
I am one of the very few tuners that make it more affordable at a later date for returning customers.
Re tunes and brush ups are discounted when you come back for re tunes and/or brush ups! They can either be done on an hourly rate or flat rate.
This makes it more affordable to rapidly progress and always be on top of your game.
Re tunes normally take 3/4 - 1/2 of the time ranging from 1.5hr-4hr covering the entire process
Retainer/Deposit System
Retainers, or deposits as some call them are made to hold a certain tune appointment date. If you put a retainer on a certain date and you miss it for any reason, the retainer is forfeited. Retainers are non refundable. All reputable tuning facility's use this same retainer/deposit system. Please do not make a deposit unless you are 100% sure you can make it to the tune appointment. When a customer is a no show to a tune appointment or their car isn't tunable, far more than the retainer amount is lost on my end. If you make a retainer, and you show up on the arranged date for your tune session, your retainer will be put towards and deducted off your final tune bill. Retainers are made via paypal, our credit card processing system, or with cash. All paypal and credit card transactions carry a 3.5% service charge. Credit/debit cards can be processed via text, email, PM, or phone. These are the only methods of payment available.
Liabilities
No one but your self is liable and/or responsible for any damages incurred to your person, car and/or engine at anytime. Not a problem to date but we have to cover our limited liability's.
We will not pay for your race car because you didn't understand the importance in maintaining your fluid levels, you decided to push a part too far, gauges not reading properly, couldn't afford it in the first place, had improper jets, fouled or inaccurate sensors or anything else that could cause your street/race car to fail or get damaged in any way.
You need to understand, you have to pay to play and things happen. Its the people that push though and understand that by dealing with us you increase the odds of success.
Please do not think you can set us up, con or sue us for a few dollars. There is no money to be had.. After business and pr expenses alone, there is absolutely nothing left. Everything has been privately funded from the start. The intention wasn't to make money off you, it was for us to go faster. We just decided we would help some quality and honest people out.
Alcohol, Drugs, Weapons, Children
There is NO hand grenades, rockets, alcohol, drugs, knives or children permitted in our shop at any time!
Specific
Honda - GM - Subaru - Dyno
Thank you for taking the time to go over this check list.
Schedule an appointment online
Honda Specific
Honda OBD1/2 OEM items that can be deleted
These items do not have to be hooked up and could be removed: Factory 02 sensors, Emissions, Carbon Canister, VTEC pressure switch, PCV and EGR
OBD1 Conversion:
OBD0 and OBD2A/B cars need to be converted to OBD1 in order to use eCtune.
Distributors
Only use OEM Honda distributors. Auto parts store distributors are junk, they can cause an ignition break up or cut at high rpm's. These are normally cheap looking with shiny stickers on them. Buy a OEM one used or rebuild one. We offer these services as well.
Radiator caps
Make sure your coolant system builds pressure, squeeze the upper radiator hose, make sure its gets tight when the car is warmed up. If it does not build pressure in the coolant system, replace the cap with an OEM Honda cap.
Head studs
Torque your Honda head studs to 80ft lbs if they are brand new. TQ them to 85ft lbs if they are used. Discard them after they have been tq'd 3 times.
Thermostats
Do not use auto parts store thermostats. Only use OEM Honda thermostats.
Stock PCV Delete
The stock PCV valve in the turbo Honda's needs to be removed or drilled out. Run a hose from the top of the OEM black box [were the drilled out PCV or barbed fitting is now] to the ground or to the bottom of a catch can. Cap off were the PCV used to enter back into the intake manifold. Run a hose from the valve covers port to the ground or to the top of a catch can. If you choose to run a catch can [recommended] you must vent the top of the can, either with a breather or a series of holes or slots. We do offer a few catch can's for purchase.
This is an absolute must for the turbo Honda's as the stock PCV will not hold the boost back and will fill your crankcase full of boost pressure. Stock PCV setups on a boosted app can cause major oil leaks and/or cast piston ring land issues associated to the added ring fludder.
Head Gaskets
Cometic, Felpro and other multi layer steel head gaskets are not the same as Honda OEM head gaskets. We don't use anything other than OEM head gaskets on these turbo Honda's We have seen problem after problem [pushing coolant, coolant temps rise under boost, plugs burn white, etc. ] with off brand after market head gaskets, we highly advise that you save your self the trouble and go OEM in this department. Simply search 'cometic' or 'Felpro' on Honda-tech, you'll see exactly what I am referring too.
Map Sensors
You can not safely do more than 9-10psi on a stock Honda map sensor. The boost cut will not work when pushing its limitations. We sell other after market map sensors if needed. [GM 3bar ~$75 + 10$ connector]
DSM Injectors
Cheap low cost DSM injectors are only good for around ~300whp. They do work decent and are excellent low cost injectors for getting your foot in the door. At times we keep these in stock.
IAT sensor wiring
Please ensure your IAT sensor wiring is right. Normally the main wire color to identify at the IAT sensor is a Red wire with a yellow stripe.
If this wiring is incorrect, it will fry my tuning ecu.
If this happens, you get the option to replace the ecu [$250] and pay to fix the wiring issues [$50/hr], or we stop all tuning and work immediately and move on to the next car.
Please guys, check this wiring, I do not want to go though this.
Fuel Pump
Stock Honda fuel pumps will not work in these turbo cars, they cause a fuel starvation issue up top. You need to at least have a Walbro 255. Normally a single Walbro 255 will get you to the ~500whp zone, after that you need to add another, a in-line Bosch 044 or another higher flowing fuel system.
Boosted Stock B Series Vtec Engines
We have guys running around for years making great power but the stock high compression cast pistons are 10+ years old. Ones that have seen a hard life prior can be very brittle and volatile with boost. With them being high compression and cast, the threshold for error is very small. One bad tank of gas = cracked ring lands = low compression on a cylinder. We highly recommend using a forged low compression piston or boosting a stock lower compression non vtec engine [LS, b18b/a]. They are such great engines when built for boost even stock sleeve. We have them daily driven in the 4-500 range. The non vtec LS engines withstand a whole lot more abuse when it comes to boost, we have been mid 11s [1/4] on a bone stock LS engine.
10+ year old cast pistons
They are old, brittle and some do not hold up to the abuse that others do. Depending on engine history, you could be on borrowed time using these with boost. We recommend a low comp forged piston that is designed to withstand the cylinder temps and pressures associated with boost. Any of these setups that come in with old stock cast pistons will be compression tested and checked out prior to the tune.
Stock D series rods
These things are the size of pencils. If you push these with boost, they will come out the side of the block. On a med sized turbo on pump gas, 12psi is normally the safe point to stay below. They can last for years on end trouble free at 6-12psi. On race gas we have been 20psi and 12.4 in the 1/4 mile on a bone stock d series on our stage 1 budget turbo kit.
Timing Covers
Engine at least needs to have its lower timing cover on it. We use this covers timing marks to timing sync your engine.
Check engine lights
These need to be checked prior and discussed with us before you schedule a tuning appointment.
Wastegate spring size
On external wastegate turbo setups only. You need to make sure what the wastegate spring pressure is. For pump gas setups, I recommend a low pressure spring, 3-7psi. Most with boosted Honda's that come here always use the 'Gear dependent boost control' feature. The wastegate spring pressure will always be your lowest boost setting. Normally the amount of boost you will build in 1st gear. We can raise the boost from that point with the on-board gear dependent boost control feature. We can not go any lower than the waste spring size. We normally run a low amount of boost in the lower gears to aide in traction and ramp in the boost higher as the gears progress. So the car gets faster with every shift. We can also control it by the rpm range as well as by the gear. It also has a closed loop boost control feature as well, that will adjust on the fly to ensure you hit your desired boost level, day in day out. This electronic boost control feature does require a install kit that we do have in stock.
Fuel pressure regulator
To most customers we recommend you run a OEM fuel pressure regulator. If you run a after market fuel pressure regulator, stay away from AEM and b&m fuel pressure regulators, they are complete junk. Maintaining a accurate fuel pressure is very important. It ensures your tune that you pay for sticks with the car and doesn't have air fuel swings. If you must go after market on the fuel pressure regulator, go with a nice name brand one. Like fuel lab, or aeromotive.
Dyno Specific
Slicks
We only dyno a car with slicks on it if we have no other choice, it is not recommended to run slicks on the dyno. Its hard on them, wears on them at a higher rate and its possible that if too much heat gets into one it could blow. We have successfully dyno tuned several cars on slicks, its time consuming and does cost extra. Tire heat has to be monitored with a infrared thermometer. Extra time is needed to cool the tires in between runs.
Factory Tow hooks or Traction bar is needed [FWD]
We use either of these as strapping points for the front of the car. We do have loaner tow hooks most of the time but it does cost extra for a mechanic to install and remove them for dyno use.
Secure radiator support [FWD]
We strap to this, it needs to be secure and solid like OEM. A lot of times if the car has had a front end conversion, has been wrecked or the radiator support has been replaced, corners are cut in securing it back to the uni body. We offer a service if your radiator support needs work.
Subaru Specific
Stock map sensors
Stock map sensors will only allow ~20-21psi safely with over boost protection enabled. We can run up to ~24psi with over boost protection disabled. We do offer after-market map sensors that will allow more boost if needed.
Boost leaks
Boost leaks in these Subaru's can cause major tune issues. Please ensure all couplers and t bolt clamps are tight. Its always a good idea to use a boost leak tester prior to the tune.
Injector leaks
Please ensure that none of your injectors are leaking fuel. Normally this is only a problem when after-market injectors are being used. After-market injectors are fine, just take care when installing them and double check your work.
MAF Sensor
Please make sure you clean your MAF sensor prior to the tune. If we tune it on a dirty MAF, the tune will be rough and will need retuned once the MAF has been cleaned.
After-market intakes
Watch these, I personally would keep everything on the intake side of the turbo OEM. Diameter and length have a huge impact on the MAF curve. It takes double the tuning time to make do with a low quality shiny intake.
3 Port Boost Solenoids
We normally stock 3 port boost solenoids. These (or a manual boost controller) are normally needed if you want to raise your boost up past ~15-16psi (stock boost is ~13psi). The stock 2 port solenoid using a non adjustable (stock) wastegate actuator typically wont raise the boost past this point. Our 3 port solenoid will allow us to raise the boost normally well higher than our desired boost level, if needed. We recommend using the 3 port over a manual boost controller. Mainly because the 3 port is ECU controlled and has compensations based on intake air temps, coolant temp, speed, gear, and can auto adjust on the fly to hit your desired target boost levels. If you choose to run a manual boost controller, your boost levels will be more inconsistent, especially when the outside temperature changes. You may have to consistently adjust the manual controller However with the 3 port, you'll never have to touch it. Normally we sell these, install them prior to a tune and tune it out for about the same price as the customer can buy these on their own.
Locked ECU's
If you don't know the previous history of your car, you may want to bring your car by the shop and have us make sure the ecu isn't locked, prior to scheduling a tune appointment. Ecu's can be locked due to a previously installed COBB or ECUTEK tune/map or rarely because of another tuner. Most of the time its because of a Cobb unit that wasn't previously uninstalled properly. I can have the ecu's sent off and a stock rom bench flashed to 'unlock' the ecu so we can opensource tune it or the ecu can be replaced. Locked ecu's are a pretty rare ordeal, however it can be a unfortunate ordeal if a customer schedules a tune appointment and shows up with a locked ecu. Unfortunately in this case their retainer or deposit as some refer to it as, is forfeited due to lost income on the tuners behalf. I hate to see any of my customers lose ~100$, however I only arrange 1 tune per day, and if a customer shows up with a locked ecu, I'm out well more than 100$, I've lost an entire days worth of income. So the deposit helps offset this some. Please, if your not sure, its best to have us, or someone with a tactrix cable try to pull the rom off the ecu to make sure its not locked. As of 2014, out of several hundred Subaru's, I've only seen 3 locked ecu's.
Dyno Specific
GM Specific
Locked PCM/ECU
Rarely some previous tuners can lock the stock PCM. This can render the ecu useless unless we have the password. If we can not get the password, the ecu will need to be replaced. Again, this is rare and there is only a few tuners in the nation that lock the GM PCM's I don't believe in rendering a ecu useless with a password.
MAF Sensor
Its a good idea to clean your MAF sensor before having it tuned. You can get MAF cleaner at any auto-parts store. If we tune it on a dirty MAF, the tune will be rough and will need retuned once the MAF has been cleaned.
Credits/License Fees
If you don't have your own 650$ HP Tuners cable, we can use mine for a $100 license fee to save you money. This is a one time license fee (2* 50$ credits per car is required) per car thats assigned to your ecu and VIN number. You'll never have to pay it again as long as we make changes with my HP Tuners cable.
Boost leaks
On turbo or supercharger cars boost leaks in can cause major tune and low power issues. Please ensure all couplers and t bolt clamps are tight. Its always a good idea to use a boost leak tester prior to the tune.
Map sensors
Turbo or Supercharger cars should consider a 3 bar upgrade with a 3 bar MAP sensor, unless you only plan on a low boost setup. ex ~8psi or less.
O2 Sensor Bung
Its ideal to have an available O2 bung that we can use for our tuning wideband. If you have to install one of these specifically for tuning purposes, on a NA car its best to put on in the X pipe. Turbo car its best to have one accessible in the engine bay, but at least 10" from the turbo or 10" from the end of the tube. Worst case, we can use whats called a wideband sniffer, its a device that slides into the end of the exhaust and holds our 02 sensor. They work well as long as the tail pipe has a decent length (12"+) of strait section before a bend. Its difficult to use a sniffer on the factory Corvette c5/c6 tail pipes, as they almost immediately goto a 90 degree bend from the exhaust tip. We do have 3 different style sniffers to cope with different exhaust tip setups. We can also temp remove a front or rear factory 02 sensor and use its location for our tuning wideband. We can reinstall the factory 02 once we are finished tuning. Only issue with the factory 02 sensor bungs is that the factory sensor is seized in most of them. Its best to check and make sure at least one isn't stuck beforehand. If you use anti-seize on the threads you can prevent this.
Dyno Specific
Please contact me if you have any questions pertaining to this tuning checklist.
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